May 8

Slept until 8

Breakfast.. No bread for me today but I did put hot chocolate in my coffee to give it some flavor and couldn’t resist the marble pound cake. I offset my indulgence with plain yogurt, oat bran and flax seed (the bag is getting lighter each day).

Since I had emptied my entire pack on arrival 3 days ago to dry it out, I needed an hour to repack carefully so everything would fit. I pulled out the backpack straps (handy Rick Steves’ convertible bag) and did my final hike in Santiago to the van. No cars allowed to our hotel in old town except taxis and for some reason everyone decided to roll/lug their bags to the parking lot instead of riding. I made it and my shoulders are still intact. Although we did pass an elderly (I can still say that) lady with a walker I was thinking of making an offer for.  Loaded in the van, we are on our way to our last stop, Finisterre. Apparently the final real Camino marker with a 0 on it, is there. We’ll see.

First stop Ponte Maceira — beautiful medieval village with a pedestrian stone bridge right on the Camino to Finisterre. Parked in a field and walked across the stone bridge with scenic low waterfalls to the right. Back to the cafe for cafe con leche. The toilet was secreted behind a door that blended into the wall. Maybe to keep non-believers from finding it (those who don’t believe in buying anything to use the facilities).

Our Cuban waiter brought cold coffee. Sent it back. He brought it back again hot but we had to guess whose cup was whose. Andre knew his because the sugar packet was empty. The rest had to guess their cup color. We probably got it wrong.

We got one soup/stew of white beans, octopus and shrimp to share. We thought we ordered a tortilla pie. 5 spoons later we pay and continue on our journey.

Next stop Muxia. Not to be missed. We found an easy parking lot which is always a relief with this van which is wider than most streets and longer than all spots. First lunch (it’s 3:15) before the restaurants shut down (4:00) until 8:00. Tina randomly found a good one. Overcast and rainy at the moment. I settled for comfort food to warm me up.. yummy spaghetti bolognese and caprese salad to make me think I’m eating healthy. After a cup of hot tea, we were on our way. I should have learned my lesson not to go to Santander Bank. Maybe all banks have a bad conversion now. It cost 20% euros to dollars hopefully with the refundable fee. Made it as far as a small shop with women doing bobbin lacing (encaje de bolilllos). Then a souvenir shop where Joana decided to buy us all a piece of chocolate.

Spent 20 minutes trying to put the next destination into the car GPS to no avail. It was 3 minutes away. I switched to the front seat and directed Andre. He didn’t think he could fit thru a few streets so ad-libbed the directions. 3 minutes later arrived on top of the hill/mountain overlooking town. Wow. What a beautiful view of the Atlantic Ocean looking over to Florida or Massachusetts or maybe just the sailboat on the horizon. Many steps and pictures later, an ice cream, a church, a monolith probably religious since I recognized the word ‘Jesus’ in the plaque, more uphill to a cross and view, bring your own seat and paper pee, set the GPS again but only 15 minutes this time and we are on our way to our lodging in Finisterre.

Tina wanted windows open to smell the forest. Still open in time to smell the cow manure.

As we approached the end of the world the phone said GPS signal lost. Of course it did. After only one u-turn and a 3 person scouting expedition we found the hotel/hostel and its parking lot actually big enough to easily park the van. I had booked a 5 bedroom apartment which turned out to be large individual hostel rooms with a door that blocked off the entire area. We had two full bathrooms and a little coffee tea area. If we went outside our entry door there was a kitchen washer, common area room. All very nice and clean. Each of our bedrooms had two to three beds so we could all really spread out. I didn’t realize how much I really like having my own room. By the time we settled in with our luggage and everything, it was time to head off to see the sunset at the end of the world. We took three women with us who just finished part of the French camino. They appreciated the ride.

Wildlife included a beautiful turtle dove and a goat. Another beautiful view of the east coast of the US. Sunset wasn’t totally spectacular due to low clouds on the horizon but close to spectacular. It actually got better as we approached the car to leave.

Parked the van at the hotel and walked to dinner at Restaurante O Centolo recommended as affordable for lobster by our hotel. We made it by 10:15 with time to order before the 11:00 kitchen closing time. Excited about my forthcoming lobster dinner: tears flowing I read the menu for the third time: lobster 90 euro /kg! That’s about $50/pound. Not today. Maybe if it was my birthday. I settled for potato cream with a green leaf soup and goat cheese salad all good but gave Joana half my soup and ate half my salad. I can’t eat these quantities.

Sangria and olives and I was ready to sleep. It’s 11:20 and still at the restaurant and I want my bed.

There a story going around that a cat followed a pilgrim for 10 miles, he finally took it to a vet, got a carrier, and carried it the rest of the way. Myth or true?